Retinol creams: what you need to know
Retinol creams have long been used in clinics to treat problem and aging skin.
In fact - you probably already know that retinol (sometimes referred to as Retin A, Vitamin A or retinoic acid) is an effective active anti aging ingredient - something that actually works. But not all retinol creams are the same and you need to know a bit more about retinol before you splash out.
In the last week or two a scientific study undertaken by the University of Michigan showed beyond doubt that topically applied retinol creams reduce wrinkles and reverse the signs of skin aging. The study used retinol in a serum at 0.4% and produced significant results on women in their eighties.
Just imagine what it might do for women in the their forties and fifties!
So - here's a list of the ten things you really need to know about retinol:
- Retinoic acid is a form of Vitamin A which is active in the body and which is proven to have anti aging effects on the skin.
- Previous studies were all carried out on Tretinoin which is short for trans-retinoic acid. Tretinoin based creams are proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and stimulate the production of collagen.
- For many years Tretinoin was the only retinoic acid used in skin rejuvenation and it was used in prescription only products because of the high risk of severe irritation. It was also commonly used for treating acne and other skin disorders.
- Recently cosmetic scientists have started developing less irritating forms of retinoic acid to achieve the anti aging effects of Tretinoin without the downside of skin redness and burning. These retinol and pro-retinol compounds allow retinoic acid to be delivered more slowly to the skin and thereby reduce irritation. It was a retinol product of this sort that was used in the Michigan study.
- Anti aging pro-retinol compounds available in creams and serums sold now include: Retinol, Retinyl Actate and Retinyl Palmitate - watch out for these names in the list of ingredients
- Pro-retinol compounds need to be present at a level that works - ideally a minimum of around 0.5% as in the Michigan study. If the retinol ingredient is listed way down the bottom of the packaging it may mean it's only present at a minute level which won't have any effect at all.
- Go for retinol products that call themselves that - or reveal the source of the anti aging effect.
- More is not necessarily better - retinol can still have an irritating effect on the skin at higher levels - especially if your skin is at all sensitive. Work up to higher levels over time and stick within a general maximum of 1% for anti aging purposes.
- All retinol products will make your skin more sensitve to sun damage. You should up your level of sun protection. Wear a broad spectrum sunscreen - at least SPF 30
- If you use a retinol serum - you will probably need a good anti aging moisturizer on top
Follow these guidelines and you can buy a good retinol cream that will do great things for your skin. The benefits will include: a reduction in skin discoloration, lines and wrinkles and smoother, brighter skin tone.
Coming next - choose from five of the best retinol creams and serums on the market to put the science bit to the test


Comments
Felicity van den Berg said:
Use Pro-Retinol anti-aging cream with Vitamin A formula
preservatives: imidazolidinyl Urea, Methyl Hydroxybenzoate, Propyl Hydroxybenzoate.
Please guide me to a product in the USA with the above that I could purchase.
Thanx
Eileen Gravelle said:
Felicity - take a look at my recommendations for best retinol products as a starter. All these are available in the US online or in-store. My favorite is the TNS Regeneration Kit from SkinMedica or the SkinCeuticals Retinol complex (details in the article). As far as availability is concerned - I prefer online shopping as it's better to browse and shop at leisure without a sales assistant pushing you to buy. If you want those specific preservatives then you need to check out the ingredient list - a good online skincare site like SkinStore will provide that for most of the products listed.